I am so stoked on my life. I have been through a lot and have learned a lot. I feel very blessed with everything that I'm able to do - especially being able to surf. I try to keep it simple and just be the best person I can be, and if it makes a difference in other people's lives, that's great!
I believe in God. I don't mean that I believe in Him like a person might believe in, say, gravity or the sun coming up in the morning. Those are just facts that don't mean anything. I mean I really believe in God.
I don't know what other girls do before they go out in a heat, but for me the routine is pretty simple: I pray. I pray for safety for everyone and I pray for wisdom in my wave selection and ability to be at the right place at the right time.
|Birth||8th February, 1990|
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